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Lisbon – A City of Contradictions

Lisbon is a vast city with an ancient history. It is a city of contradictions. Lisbon, with its modern buildings, is very much a city of the present. However, it has aspects that appear to be in a state of disrepair. The area features forgotten structures and a perplexing transportation network. Given its three million residents and 8.5 million yearly visitors, Lisbon can feel crowded.

Lisbon

Central Lisbon

Central Lisbon offers a look into the past and present. This area’s origins are in the 7th century BC.

A closer look shows some districts aren’t so compromised. Alfama, Baixa, and Barrio Alto are districts worthy of your time. You can see all three on foot. A visit to the three spots in the same day could require transport, given Lisbon’s hills. We walked to see them and then rode the subway to catch our train.

Of the three districts, I would choose the Alfama as the place to spend the most time. It has more history and personality. Baixa and Barrio Alto are broad pedestrian-friendly plazas. The restaurants are very diverse. Sadly, many trinket shops sell what looks like the same stuff.

Lisbon

Arch of Triumph and entry to Baixa.

The Alfama

Many fiction thrillers set their stories in the Alfama district. Sao Jorge Castle and a stroll down through Alfama are intriguing. Its alleyways are winding, steep and narrow. They can be confusing, even for GPS-oriented maps. However, do not despair; you will find your way.

The view from the top of Sao Jorge Castle is one of the city’s best. The busy harbor, red roofs, and a city in motion are in view.

Ruins from 7th Century BC Lisboa Portugal From Castelo de São Jorge

Castelo de São Jorge

On a return to the waterfront, you can find plazas with music and singing, as well as buildings that look abandoned.

Lisbon

Singing on Largo Santa Luzia Alfama

Window of Opportunity

Peacock at Castelo de São Jorge

Linda Lubeck Castelo de São Jorge

Final Thoughts

Regrettably, Lisbon was a bit of a letdown when compared to other prominent cities in Spain and Europe. The city can feel vast, unclean, and filled with tourist traps. The information booth staff could sometimes be rude and unhelpful. During our visit, most of the museums were closed for repairs.

My suggestion is to visit Lisbon but limit your time spent to a day trip or two, but no longer. Take the time to invest in the areas and regions outside of the city, such as the elegant and friendly Cascais.

A Hidden Gem Discovered – Costa da Prata

Finding a hidden gem within a group of larger ones is a delight. The beach towns of Costa Nova and Barra, with the sand-dunes, sparkling homes and lighthouses, are possibly one such discovery. Situated west of Aveiro, a canal city, they are next to each other. An estuary separates them from Aveiro.

The Silver Coast

The Silver Coast, also known as Costa da Prata, spans 150 miles. It stretches along the Atlantic Ocean from north of Lisbon to south of Porto. People know the Costa da Prata for its striking natural beauty and a lifestyle resembling that of the Portuguese. Nazare attracts many visitors with its tourist-friendly vibe.

Costa Nova

I determined the potential destination I wanted to go to over ten years before the Portugal trip. I happened upon an image of cottages painted in stripes of various colors in the mid-2010s. The image was of the promenade at Praia da Costa Nova.

Fortune would fall upon us, such that we could not only visit the setting, but stay there. Our home exchange was for a place located just blocks from the Praia da Costa Nova promenade.

Costa Nova was where fishing companies first built palheiros in the early 1800s. These huts were to become storehouses for salted fish later. A mixture of fish-oil and pigment protected the buildings. Custom had it to alternate the colors between boards.

Given its location, Costa Nova became a desirable place for writers, politicians, and the wealthy in the 20th century. The coloring tradition continues.

Gem

Barra

The towns of Praia da Barra and Praia da Costa Nova are side by side. Barra has a great deal more housing and local commercial operations than Costa Nova. Most of the businesses are for the local community. For example, the restaurant Salus appears to be an unexciting hole in the wall. However, reviews from locals gave superior ratings. The two of us enjoyed fresh, grilled sea-bass. Its flaky white meat was sumptuous.

The boardwalk and beach at Barra are both long and wide. At its northern tip, Barra is where the Atlantic Ocean merges with the Aveiro Ria (estuary). The setting is dynamic and dramatic.

The Barra lighthouse is Portugal’s tallest, standing over 200 feet. A 3,116-foot break-wall shields the estuary from the ocean. The weather and ocean conditions can change with dramatic effect. A walk along the break-wall is exciting.

Another Gem Uncovered

The shoreline in the area began a retreat over 600 years ago. It created the Aveiro Ria, a lagoon of 29 miles and 27,000 acres with what feels like endless sandpits and dunes.

The Aveiro Ria’s presence enabled seaweed harvesting, fishing, and salt production. With the changing times, Aveiro Ria is now a fantastic place for water recreation.

Our visits to Aveiro, Porto, and the Duoro showcased the region’s grandeur. It was unexpected.

Gem

The Venice of Portugal

Visiting Aveiro was a pleasant surprise. The city has many canals. Their original purpose was to facilitate transportation and business. Unfortunately, it rained the day we visited. The bridges over the canal are covered in color ribbon. The canal gondola ride and city walk were still enjoyable.

The Portugal Silver Coast trip was worthwhile in several ways. We confirmed what we believed to be hidden gems was true. We experienced a remarkable world of water surrounding nature, which was unexpected.

*** Jeff’s Thought’s and Other Worthless Trivia ***

All of the text, and images appearing in this Post are Copyright – Jeffrey H. Lubeck & MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.

One word for Tomar and Castle of the Knights Templar: Spectacular

Templar

Castle of the Knights Templar as the sun sets

Using the word spectacular when describing a place, person, or thing can prove dangerous. As it relates to Portugal, I will take the risk. The Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ is otherwise spectacular.

To reach the Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ, you must travel through the beautiful Portuguese town of Tomar. Tomar is a 90-minute drive from Lisbon. Tomar sits on the Nabao River. The riverfront park is clean and lush. The town is colorful and enchanting, with tile roofs and the deep red Knights Tomar emblem.

Tomar does not feel touristy. Shops on the narrow streets are well stocked, varied in theme, and appear to be owned by locals. The center of town is bright and alive. Neighborhoods surrounding the center of town are pretty and well kept.

The chessboard-like plaza in the center of town contains the Church of John the Baptist and a modern statue of Gualdim Pais. Pais led the defense during a siege of Tomar. The setting is impressive.

Church of John the Baptist

Center Square of Tomar

The streets of Tomar

A neighborhood home in Tomar

Tomar’s surrounding area is likely the most fertile in Portugal, maybe even Iberia. Its agriculture includes olives, figs, pine, and eucalyptus trees.

All Goes Through Tomar

The castle’s protection was the purpose of Tomar’s creation. The streets of the village provide access to the castle. In 1166, Tomar was the last of the Templar towns created.

Tomar was central to Portugal’s expansion in the 15th century because of Prince Henry the Navigator. Henry was the Grand Master of the Order of Christ. They succeeded the Knights Templar and controlled most things in Portugal, including banking.

Support from the Order of Christ came in many forms. You might require help in seeking the Holy Grail, fighting a religious war, sailing to the end of the earth, acquiring a loan, or depositing money.

Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ

The Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ sit high above the town of Tomar.

We climbed to the castle from Tomar via ancient, narrow, and steep paths. The grounds are enormous.

In the late 1100s, the Knights Templar erected the castle and church. The castle has withstood multiple sieges. The Moors were the first to try taking the castle in 1190.  Pais turned them back. Napoleon tried in the early 1800s during the Peninsula War.

The area has undergone major changes.

King Denis of Portugal ordered the convent to be built in 1317. The Order of Christ moved into the castle in 1357. They made further changes and additions, including a palace for Henry, and the addition of a nave to the church. King John III of Portugal made significant additions to support the monastery in the 1600s.

Different architectural styles are apparent while touring the castle, church and convent. Exterior walls and towers are akin to those constructed in the north of France and Britain. Gothic is the style of the nave. Designers employed the Manueline style for the church.

Simple and austere best describe the convent and monastery. Darkness, shadow, bright sunshine streaking through the windows was a fascinating aspect of the monastery.

Templar Templar Templar

A Complicated History

Tomar, the Knights Templar, the Order of Christ, and the castle and convent have a long, extraordinary, and complicated history. All of it is why I desired a visit. Below are resources to learn more.

Travel writer Rick Steve explains Tomar [here].

Some excellent background about the Knights Templar is located [here].

A detailed description of the Order of Christ’s history is [here].

The Visit

On this trip, I would have spent more time in this area and less elsewhere. For instance, I could see myself spending less time in Porto or Lisbon, and more time in Tomar.

*** Jeff’s Thought’s and Other Worthless Trivia ***

All of the text, and images appearing in this Post are Copyright – Jeffrey H. Lubeck & MESH Art LLC – all rights reserved.